Micro nuts climbing reddit. Found this interesting article on Roland Pauligk (1938-2017): The man who changed climbing with his brass micro nuts. Not a concern for a cam in a splitter crack, but if you're placing gear Hey everyone! I’ve been trad climbing for 3 years now and I am interested in switching my gear around. Jul 9, 2003 · In reply to http://www. We tested each through a wide range of fissures, scar pins, parallel-sided cracks, around blocks, and the like. I tend to lead everything for my friends so own 1. Also looking for opinions on micro cams. climbing. The same size BallNut feels more solid in this tiny placements and has a much bigger contact area than a micro friend. com Open Share Add a Comment Sort by: Top Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A andrew314159 • Oct 31, 2024 · Our climbing experts have been testing the best climbing nuts and stoppers for over 10 years and over 15 different sets. You wouldn't be the first to break a micro nut's wire in a big fall. Jan 6, 2020 · The DMM HB Brass Offset (also known as simply DMM Brass Offsets) is the most popular “ brassy ” or micro nut on the market, and with good reason. Not only did he invent the brass micro-nuts that now bear his initials (RPs), he used to climb with a MOTHERFUCKING PARROT ON HIS SHOULDER. Some of these sets I've mentioned include really small nuts that aren't rated for free-climbing fall forces; I've only ever used those sizes to back up really weird belay stances. Not sure why you're being downvoted, micro nuts absolutely should be a last resort when you can't get anything else to fit. I'm running old Tango "made by Hudy Sports" nuts, and I recently realized that they are actually offset in one plane and parallel in another plane. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. The brass ball doesn't make them more of a marginal piece, however it does makes them very prone to get stuck after a big whipper, which is the only downside I see to them. For free climbing I have a set of bd micro nuts (the original non offset ones) and a partial set of metolius astro nuts. I have a rack of totems then BD C4 . Apr 6, 2017 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. 5 - #5. I thought it may be of interest to some. I had the bd's first and they are pretty versatile (twist them if you want a taper) and hold up to use/falls pretty well. Jul 24, 2025 · Concise climbing nuts reviews tailored to your needs. In this update, we purchased 7 of the best sets and slid them into cracks of all sizes across the United States. 51 votes, 73 comments. They get fucked up easily, and I personally know several people who have broken them, even in the relatively larger sizes. planetfear. They are neat devices but honestly, just grab some micro tricams or regular micro cams. Thanks in advance!! Ball nuts are for static weight in aid climbing, not free climbing dynamic falls. TL;DR: niche piece & couldn't Climbit, I would like introduce you to a climber you should know: Roland Pauligk. While I've never used ball nuts myself, they may be worthwhile to use in place of your smallest nuts on routes that are tiny runout cracks as they provide a bit more protection (7kN compared to 2kN for 3. 75 for the BD Z4s but don’t have any experience with them. Because we believe the best climbing nut is not the best for everyone. These tiny pieces of passive protection revolutionized what is possible with traditionally placed gear when they were first released. . I'm pretty sure that every time I've placed a Peenut, it's been a total surprise to me that they fit anywhere at all. Im going to get rid of the . 5 & . 3 and below for me. Even some micro cams aren't really rated for falls. Even now, after several updates and a lot more fierce competition, they remain one of the very best nuts for the Weekend Whipper: Two Nuts Rip, a Third Unclips. But for micronuts you probably don't want, or can't use, a cam, and a finicky offset micronut isn't confidence inspiring. If the climbing is hard, it's definitely easier to place a cam where you could have placed a regular nut, and an offset can usually go in as well. 20K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. And I really love them nuts. it's dangerous. Here's a quick rundown on why ball nuts might be better than similarly sized cams from Sierra Mountain Guides: Demystifying the Ball Nut. We used each while ascending wind-blown alpine I own cam sizes down to a purple C3 (00) and a full range of micro nuts and ball nuts have mostly made the smallest nuts obsolete for me. The other way gear rips is when the rock itself breaks. I own doubles in the smallest three sizes. 8mm spans via Trango). 5 racks looking to make it a true double. Climber Decks. What I would worry about are the smallest cams and micro nuts, which have smaller wires and have a lower strength rating. : r/climbing TOPICS Gaming Sports Business Crypto Television Celebrity You're not too heavy! Cams are plenty strong, I wouldn't worry about that. com/climbing/highmountainmag/equipmentnotes/august200 These things replaced all cams around 0. gzoq zedlhgk hyazrf bweoue bahq tildudd vxkji qobto njmaen ukwadrx