Max hang protocol. trueCorrect, my max weighted hangs on 18mm went down.

Max hang protocol. What Are Max Hangs? Nov 17, 2024 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. One of my favourite max hang focused exercises is the 7:53 Max Hang protocol. Both plans incorporate max hangs into the bouldering workout days, and you do, at most, 10 min of max hangs (at most 10 hangs) on just one grip type. At this point, my max hang is 170% bw. Done. As soon as you can do 10/5 protocol with some consistency, then I would suggest starting to move to a max hang protocol. Beginning a minimum edge protocol (Eva Lopez) and I hit 7mm for 5 sets of 12 seconds. Max hangs are good for building Train like a Pro, it's simple, by using a straight forward protocol called Edge Progressions, developed by Roots-Climbing for bouldering specific finger strength training and incorporate time tested 7/3 and 10/5 Maximal Hangs. For example, when training the 3-finger drag, you will either add more weight or change edge size to adjust the level of resistance. May 12, 2020 · One-hand max hangs reduce injury risk because they are self-limiting—you can’t exceed what you can naturally pull. About 8 max hangs with 4 to 5 mins rest between is about right. In this video, Cameron Hörst details the 7/53 hangboard protocol for building finger strength. Back in January, I had started a max hang protocol that was abandoned in favor of climbing harder routes. For example, if you weigh 150 lbs and can complete a hang at 50 lbs but fail or lose form at five seconds when adding 55 lbs, then your max strength score is 200 lbs (150 lbs + 50 lbs), or 133% bodyweight. Oct 31, 2022 · Here are two hangboarding protocols you can try to help improve your finger strength or endurance. Thanks! I was thinking 1 max hang session followed by one of the two Int-Hangs protocols but you are right it would be more beneficial to keep them in separate training days. Nov 19, 2024 · Background Climbing places high loads through the hands and fingers, and climbers may benefit from specific finger strength training (hangboarding) protocols. This year I am getting back into it. Hope this clears it up a bit! Sep 21, 2023 · Take your targeted finger training to the next level. Ensure to complete this training when you are fresh and adjust the training intensity of subsequent training accordingly. Also, pinch strength is quite width-specific, so I'd have to train multiple different widths to get better at all of Apr 7, 2024 · Tired of Max-Hangs and Repeaters fingerboard drills? Revamp your finger strength training with the novel Arm-Lifting protocols! Cons: Not easy to measure progress - max weighted hang before and after? Difficult to know if you're giving the right effort level Difficult to know if you're over fatiguing yourself? (because it's an effort based, not X weight on X hold for X seconds protocol) I would rest 1 more week & switch up the hang frequency to 1-2 times a week. 3 Abrahangs protocol Nov 6, 2024 · Overview of Emil's viral "No Hang" protocol (aka, Abra-hangs) The scientific paper that gave Emil and his brother the idea for the Abra-hang experiment Accessing thousands of points of climber data Measuring three groups ("just climb", "max hang", and "no hang") The shocking results of the finger strength study It depends on what protocols you want to try. 클라이머의 근육과 힘줄을 현재 연조직의 구조적 한계 내에서 최대 76 votes, 29 comments. Starting to work on one-arm hangs using 10 second protocol at 30mm. Nov 6, 2024 · Emil Abrahamsson and Dr Keith Baar join to discuss a brand new study on finger strength, including: Overview of Emil's viral "No Hang" protocol (aka, Abra-hangs) The scientific paper that gave Emil and his brother the idea for the Abra-hang experiment Accessing thousands of points of climber data Measuring three groups ("just climb", "max hang", and "no hang") The shocking results of the Dec 12, 2024 · 체중을 줄여주어 실시하였습니다 2. The evidence suggests Emil’s protocol caused some remodeling of his connective tissue, but also neurological and psychological changes to pain-related stimuli. After this season of training, he progressed to 5. Blocks are excellent for situations like rehabilitation of injury, as you need extremely light weight, but also desire specific and quantifiable progression. The “max hang” protocol is the simplest. Over 30 days I missed 3-4 days, 2 of which I climbed outdoors. However, we are just looking at max hang versus repeater protocol in isolation. This statistical analysis from Casey Elliott and Karly Rager showed that Continuous hang - another finger metric, mostly related to finger endurance. He speculates that a 10" max hang is more targeted at recruitment whereas low total set repeaters are more beneficial for strength building. I find it much harder to hang from it than from a hangboard which is screwed Anecdotally I have quite a good weighted pull up PB for my size and yet my max hang is definitely limited by my shoulders. Warm up properly and add weights slowly at first. Jan 5, 2023 · An example of a traditional fingerboard protocol The ethos of measuring hang times and max loads is so embedded in our culture and history that it seems very counterculture to suggest that these exercises aren’t as helpful as we once thought. That would be 6 x 10s hangs, with 2 minutes between the hangs. Recording and Progression: stressing the value of keeping track of loads and moving at a steady pace. her max hang routine is essentially the same as the russian powerlifting protocol as described by pavel. Using repeater protocol once or twice a week supplemented with Max hangs has been a way for me to actually gain strength in my fingers and forearms over the quarantine, but repeaters are key for replacing that climbing volume. Also, quality of training is more important than quantity. Example: in the initial 4-week cycles the pause was 2’ and the hanging times 20”, 30” and 45”. 90% of bodyweight + load/weight added at failure in test). Jul 5, 2018 · • In SubHangs we started extending hang times; now, perhaps a season or a year later, the edge depth/hold difficulty or weight will still be fixed and our goal will switch to briefer recovery times. Currently dealing with a broken foot that's making any real climbing all but impossible, so hoping to start a max hang cycle to keep me occupied and ideally increase some finger strength as my foot recovers. With the two-finger half crimp I'm the weakest, and can just barely hang from the ground as a max hang, there I unload 40-45kg instead. What would be a good protocol for hypertophie and how often per week and how many weeks would you train it bevore switching back to max hang's? 😅😉 And one more question. I'm wondering if anyone tracks their continuous hang time and if it's What are the advantages and disadvantages of max hangs vs longer hangs (40 seconds) vs longer workouts with less rest in between (7 second on 3 seconds off) for finger strength? I'm starting my own max hang protocol tonight and this write up is incredible, thanks for such a detailed write up. Do number of sets (whatever works, 3-5) 7"/53", number of reps and sets. I am considering doing one arm timed pulls with the Tindeq with the idea that it would be easier to get a true max "hang" since I am not limited by a fixed weight added to myself. They can be done with two arms or one, depending on strength development. I believe the current consensus among top coaches/researchers (lattice, eva lopez, et. Yet we can now measure the actual efficacy of these protocols, and the news isn’t great. Weight:145-147lbs. I've been cycling thru the 7-3 repeaters (7s on 3s off for 4 sets for 3 or 4 grips), 7-53 protocol for 4 sets of 3 or 4 grips, and then max hangs 7 to 10s max hang and 3 to 5+min rest for 4 sets of 3 or 4 grips. Is it beneficial to do max hangs with much less weight on a 10mm hold or is it too skin dependent? Skin dependent is like 4-6mm, depending on how sweaty your fingers get. I was able to do hold 155lbs. 2 Max hang protocol 20mm 엣지에서 수행하였으며 2. Feb 17, 2023 · the basic protocol i prefer for board is the one popularized by eva lopez. The app is free. This was still not my max although quite close maybe 80-90% (I weigh around 60kg). Today I tested… Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. The group that did both protocols improved more (~5. Is there a way to understand better if I should prioritize hypertrophy or heavy (max) hangs to increase strength? Apr 16, 2025 · The Abrahangs and Max Hang groups saw modest increases (~2. al) is that the protocol itself does not matter the most. Full recovery needed between hangs. Finally, they’re fun! However after having read a few articles on hangboard training I'm wondering if I should switch to a "Max Hang" protocol instead of working on "repeaters" which are more geared towards sports climbing. Dec 6, 2022 · This seems to the case here with max hangs. You could experiment cutting you max hang session short, or I like to max hang in the morning and climb in the evening (or repeaters in this case). The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of a 10-minute low intensity hangboard finger strengthening protocol (“Abrahangs”), compared with the generally accepted Max Hangs protocol for training maximal grip strength The goal was twofold: first, to better understand how elite climbers and coaches structure their training, and second, to inform the design of MTI’s July climbing cycle—complete with a built-in mini-study on max hang protocols. Isolating groups of fingers should be used with intention, rather than a scattergun approach. Jun 20, 2022 · Since 2019, I’ve been doing max hangs as part of either Power Company or Lattice 12-week training plans. It is a recruitment exercise to 'fire' up muscles fibres. 12. The most important thing is to pick one and keep at it regularly. Incorporate your results for a plan Using the example 12 week plan from part 3 in the series the athlete would complete the sessions ** as follows, based on their finger strength score. 5 hours apart. Warm-up and max hangs can be done in as little as 30 minutes or preceding other training/climbing. 2 at most 3 sessions per week, before climbing, 2-5 sets of 5-10 seconds with rests of 3 to 5 minutes between sets. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of a 10-minute low intensity hangboard finger strengthening protocol (“Abrahangs”), compared with the generally accepted Max Hangs protocol for training maximal grip strength I can hang easily for 40+ seconds on body weight on 20mm, but my max load is probably only body weight +5kg (about 80kg total). This article explores the repair of ligaments and tendons by unpacking experiments conducted on clone samples of ACL tissue, which subjected the tissue to The intensity, effort duration, rest, and number of reps is similar to the general recommendation for max hangboard protocols. Four finger crimp on 14mm edge, 3 sets. However I think the schedule you mentioned would be a better place to start, until you know how your body responds. 6 weeks of minimum edge, 5 weeks of max hangs, 8 weeks of repeaters and repeat) applies continual varied stimulus to your physiology and is a sure-fire way to keep improving, rather than plateauing after your 10th week of max hangs. Apr 21, 2020 · Hangboard Protocols There are a few different dead hang protocols that most climbers use. You start at 6 seconds, progress to 10 seconds at a fixed weight, then add a bit more weight or reduce the size of the hold. Hey I'm new to repeaters, been doing a max hang protocol for the last 2 months with good results and I want to mix it up and hopefully stimulate some additional hypertrophy and build back some endurance. Nov 10, 2022 · If you’re hanging by two fingers on your project, it makes sense to specifically prepare via training. In this article we will highlight the general ways to perform two of the more popular protocols: repeaters and max hangs. Adjust intensity (change hold size or weight) to be able to barely hold on for 10 seconds. Jul 15, 2016 · The multitude of finger training approaches includes fingerboard pyramids, max hangs, repeaters, encores and many more. I started doing density hangs for injury prevention and contact strength. And the same goes for hang board. 2%). Learn an advanced hangboard training protocol for developing maximum finger strength. As strength improves, you can increase hang time and decrease rest time progressively. 8%), and this difference was statistically significant. Or, if you have experience with hangboarding but have a project that involves crimping on a smaller ledge, work the minimal edge protocol to build strength on that crimp. Which max hang protocols seemed to work for you all? Any personal experience or scientific research that would suggest either protocol would be more effective to develop the adaptation I am looking for (or a completely different routine)? The beauty of “max hang” protocols is that you increase intensity by adding weight rather than using smaller holds—this makes for less skin pain and little risk of dry-firing. Did someone tried it? It's going to be interesting to share an experience on this. I can pick up bodyweight on one arm but I struggle with weighted hangs. That’s enough stimulus to tell your muscles to grow. Ideally you'd hang off an edge <1 pad - you can use even a battery to reduce your edge depth if that's all you have. make them easier. Jul 1, 2021 · The Abrahamssons’ hangboard routine is rooted in scientific research, with Felix basing the programme on an academic paper by Keith Baar titled “Minimizing Injury and Maximizing Return to Play: Lessons from Engineered Ligaments”. From humble beginnings in 2018 at only 118% of BW held, to a MASSIVE increase to 157% BW on the same hold, you could say I far exceeded my training expectations. 09 - [트레이닝/그립] - [트레이닝]클라이머 행보드 훈련 방법 핑거 보드 리프팅 훈련 방식에 대해서는 위 글 참조 맥스 행 (Max Hangs) 맥스행 훈련은 전완근이 발생시킬 수 있는 총 힘을 증가시키는데 중점을 둡니다 (최대 그립). Only thing I'm scared of is my fingers and tendons not being ready to handle the stress of a max-hang training cycle right off the bat. Instead, I am considering going back to minimum edge hangboarding but am unsure of protocol for an analogous routine. I’ve been seeing these “no hangs”lately on social media and what not. I'm doing 2 sessions of max hangs a week using Lattice's one arm protocol (6 * 10 sec hang on both sides). One downside of this method of max hangs is that it is h ard to quantify your results. If you’re doing 10 sets of max hangs in a session and double that on Fridays, there’s no way you can maintain peak performance though all of those sets. Feb 11, 2021 · A brand new hangboard regimen consisting of two sessions per day, everyday, without ever leaving the ground Oct 12, 2020 · Learn an intermediate to advanced hangboard training protocol for developing maximum finger strength for climbing. This is one rep. Max Hang Protocol (better for improving strength and also power): Repeaters Protocol (better for improving endurance and also strength): This protocol is designed specifically to increase tendon density and while it may have other benefits you shouldn’t bother with how your fingers feel compared to other protocols or types of climbing. If maximal strength is your goal do max hangs. The length you can hang for will naturally fluctuate but aim between 8-12seconds, so adjust load/hold type etc to achieve this. Repeat for 6 and 9 seconds. 8,14 The max protocol uses single hangs of the max amount of weight Feb 6, 2022 · How to hangboard for strength? What grips and edge size? How long should you hang? One arm or two? You need to know the answers to these questions and we’ve got you covered! In this episode of our Fundamentals Series we cover the big questions in hangboard training and give you two fundamental training sessions every climbing will need if serious about training. When you start out you should get used to how your body feels while hanging and not worry about being at your absolute limit. It’s basically lifting weight of the ground that’s tied to an edge is some sort. Reducing the number of fingers on a hang will typically increase the load on the engaged soft tissues and therefore the risk of injury. 14b, and then 5. I’m towards the end of a (not terribly useful) hang board cycle. Out of anxiety that im not doing enough climbing specific training and in some hope that they will sort of prehab my fingers, im doing density hangs twice a week as well (not on the same days). Maybe even change up the protocol to density hang if you don't want to go max hanging yet. . They are also a great max hang protocol to use if you don’t have extra weights to add to your body (needed for two-handed max hangs). It is also one of the least time-intensive programs. max hang protocol doesn't take much time and is probably the best bang for your buck. Repeat this for 6-10 sets on different edges and grips. 02 secs Dynamometer readings (R/L): 36. I’m doing three grips- the smallest edge rail grip, 3-finger pocket, and the 40° (hard) sloper. I know strength gains on the hangboard should be slow and controlled but still want to make the most of it. I went from 20lbs to 52. 6 days I did the protocol only once. Kill the ego, start low and light, and work back up. Just wondering what everyone thinks about these two protocols for hangboarding. It is interesting because your protocol is 5 on 5 off so the not completing 2 sets may not be due to a change in muscular strength. If OP can't do that right now safely, that could be the same overall protocol with feet on and pulling at 80-90% force (hard to measure without an analogue scale). Six months ago I did the Crimpd app Max Hang Protocol. Your hands are chalked and the board is mounted, but what are you supposed to do? Sure, hanging from edges seems easy enough, but how do you maximize your gains? What is the correct way to hang? What options do you have? For International Grip Strength Champion Yves Gravelle, the “rule for training specific hand positions is if you use it A typical max hang protocol, on the other hand, allows you to dial in the exact amount of weight you need to hang at near-maximal strength for a specific amount of time. So the max hang protocol described earlier helps quite a bit, and I sometimes supplement that with 2-3 hangs on a 6mm or 8mm edge. Just 5 sets of half crimp and 3fd, 10 second hangs with added weight. Nov 6, 2024 · Overview of Emil's viral "No Hang" protocol (aka, Abra-hangs) The scientific paper that gave Emil and his brother the idea for the Abra-hang experiment Measuring three groups ("just climb", "max I follow the Crimpd protocol which actually gets you to hang about 90% of your actual max but you can easily reduce this number depending on how you're feeling. 14d the following season. This showed a significant and positive influence on climbing grade. Hang for 7 seconds - off for 53 seconds. It involves adding the maximum weight or subtracting the minimum weight that you can tolerate for a 10 second hang. Conclusion The protocol was an interesting experiment and it certainly made my fingers and shoulders stronger, but I'll probably stick to max hanging after my summer trip, because it's more controlled and less injury risky. I quickly got to where I could hang off the smallest hold which is a 12mm crimp. These practice guidelines are intended to assist you in providing quality patient care that meets regulatory requirements. Due to the limit of weights I can't do the max hang protocol that I would have liked. Just stick to one method at a time Reply reply More replies CakeFederal4020 • Say between a few multi-week cycles, for someone currently max hanging 30% BW at 20mm, what would be realistic progression to expect between cycles in terms of added weight? Feb 14, 2022 · He committed to hang boarding (max hang protocol) for 6 days a week for an entire season, or around 6 months. When progress plateaus it's a signal to switch something up (i. I was thinking about doing a test session every four weeks to see what i can hang for 10 sec and then hang for 7 sec with the exact same weight but it seems to be too slow. Maybe once a week with 2x max hangs session during the strength phase? I will give it a try. But, I've come to the point where my shoulders (more specifically my left rotator cuff) are failing before my fingers are, which isn't the goal of hangboarding. back 3, Front 3, 3 finger drag etc. Description of the hangs: Max hangs: 7-10 second holds, 2:30 to 3:00 min breaks, adding weight (if needed) to get failure within that time frame. May 26, 2020 · Terms definitions: Max Hang means a max hang hangboarding protocol (see one-hand max hangs and two-hand max hangs for examples) Limit Boulders means trying boulders at the limit of your ability Power Boulders means working on boulder problems that demand a lot of power (dynamic movement). Pretty simple. Once you So a week ago I saw the research paper uploaded here where it compared different hangborad protocols, none of them were max hangs. Total time under tension is low in max hang protocols, hence the switch to relatively heavy repeater work with an aim to promote hypertrophy. Jul 5, 2018 · “Perform 2 sets of dead hangs on the smallest edge that would allow you to hang for 15 seconds max, but do just 12 to keep a margin of 3 seconds; rest 3 minutes between sets”. Not 100% sure how to use Int-Hangs. I think that this indicates that for any given hang / rest ratio, 10 mins elapsed time is optimal, though we can't draw conclusions about the optimal hang / rest protocol within the 10 mins from the research paper done. According to the book, 5-15s max hangs are great for neuromuscular recruitment but don't provide as much stimulus to strength as 20s "long" max hangs. Allow yourself approximately 3 minutes of rest before moving on to the next repetition. Pros: Studies have shown the largest, quickest strength response with this program: as much as a 15% increase in just 4 weeks (likely related to neural adaptations). Hang for 10 seconds and then recover for 3 minutes. Does anyone have experience doing “max hangs” on minimum edge? Should I just find the smallest edge I can hang from for 7-10s, move to a slightly larger edge, and follow a similar protocol of 4-6 sets at 10s? Dec 17, 2021 · You have found yourself a deadly-looking hangboard. 5lbs added. +75lbs open handed and 155lbs+95lbs half crimp. With 5-8 reps of a 10 second max hang protocol in an open hand position and hangboarding 1-2 times per week I think adding 5lbs every two weeks is reasonable. Seems that for bouldering there could be more benefit to performing max hang style work outs, or at least I’m always looking for a way to increase my hand strength. With the abundance of info and data circulating about protocols and best practices, figured I'd throw out a couple of questions for which I haven't been able to find any clear answers yet. I tried to find some more information on the topic, but it seems like most protocols recommend 5-10s hangs and longer hangs are not often 2 Arm Finger Strength Test 2 Arm Finger Strength Protocol This testing session is designed to assess finger strength using a 2 arm dead-hang protocol. Jan 26, 2024 · Read our No-Hang routine review. Dec 3, 2020 · The short, intense max hang protocol is geared more for developing peak strength rather than power endurance as in repeaters. Same advice applies to pretty much any training modality centered around progressive overload. However, it's interesting how the suggestion for Training frequency is 4 to 6 times per week for increasing strength and 2 times per week to maintain strength levels. You can get to max recruitment with a 40 second hang on a 25mm edge, you can also get to max recruitment with a one arm hang on a 20mm edge for 5 seconds. Nov 6, 2024 · Climbing Coaches Emil Abrahamsson and Dr Keith Baar joins to discuss: Overview of Emil's viral "No Hang" protocol (aka, Abra-hangs) The scientific paper that gave Emil and his brother the idea for the Abra-hang experiment Accessing thousands of points of climber data Measuring three groups ("just climb", "max hang", and "no hang") The shocking results of the finger strength study What the Given that hang length will normally be determined by the protocol, the norm is to use either hold size of extra weight as a variable – not both. Repeaters: This workout emulates the experience of reaching for the next hold during a climb. I swear, I'm not spraying. 5–3. The structure of the program is: 10 Seconds on, 50 seconds rest for each hang. Apr 24, 2023 · This ability to move your wrist is a big part of why no hang training seems to work so much better for pinch training than currently available fingerboards. Improve your climbing abilities, finger health and develop a stronger grip with this innovative approach. I don't bother training pinches at all, because I don't encounter them often climbing around here. Mar 14, 2018 · The previous entry was a first look at the Intermittent dead-hangs training method. You may train various hold positions, from half crimp and full crimp through 3-finger drag, 2-finger pockets, and even pinches. Hi folks, love reading about climbing and training here. Now i want to know how exactly to progress. What do you guys think? Nov 21, 2022 · Everyone wants strong fingers, but not everyone understands just how to do it right. Learn four essential fingerboard training protocols to improve your climbing strength and endurance. Prior PB: the day before was 60lbs added. Oct 7, 2022 · Max Hangs are just what they sound like, max hangs on a fingerboard to target finger strength development. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Then it got me thinking, a max hang protocol is almost like training our 1 rep max everytime. May 19, 2020 · Progression with two-arm max hangs works really well—it’s built into the fabric of the protocol. Aug 24, 2023 · For beginners, a common protocol might be 10 seconds of hanging followed by 20-60 seconds of rest. Nov 19, 2024 · A) A dead hang with added weight representative of the Max Hangs and Finger Strength Test (1RM) protocol and B) An isometric hang performed with feet on the ground representative of the Abrahangs Yet id like to keep up my max hang protocol. But I attribute this to tweakiness and going without maximal hangs for a month, as my 1arm hang on 20mm a week later was way past what I've been able to do before I don't know where I'm at with grades, but when I went outside during my deload week I tried a v11 that's been a 2. Lately I've been doing max hang protocol, but at significantly bigger hold and just body weight instead of added weight to max - so 12 seconds on, 3 minute rest repeat I do 2 sets of 7 reps with a 5 minute rest between sets and usually core exercises or stretching in the rests. Some new climbers might feel tweaky from it because they can’t actually hang BW (and might be far from it) and they do 40% BW hangs which end up being a lot more than they should. trueCorrect, my max weighted hangs on 18mm went down. Retest every 2 weeks, give at least 3 days inbetween hang sessions. For half-crimp I would progress slower due to higher mechanical stresses. I know it's just another hangboard protocol which will work if you do it correctly, but how it is compered to the max hang protocol for example. Also, what’s the difference between this and In your instance, density hangs would not be recommended because you’re following a max hang protocol. I don't think this is a "forever" protocol, the time-under-tension is too low. Over the past couple months, I've made great finger gains following Steve Maisch's 5x10'' max hang protocol. I’ve got the Rock Prodigy Forge and I’m currently doing a Max Hang Protocol-kinda derived from Esther Smith. I started hangboarding recently with a min edge protocol and found the selection of edges on my hangboard less than ideal. If you need more endurance do a repeater session. Feb 22, 2020 · In this video we discuss the research between max hangs vs repeaters, demonstrate each, and give some advice if you are still undecided. – Hang for 7-10 seconds, the minuscule hold you can. This is measured by timing how long you can hang on a 20mm edge at body weight without taking a break. Limit to 3 to 5 sets. You should use this session before and after several weeks or months of training to measure the effectiveness of your training. Today I tried my max hang on the beastmaker 1000 16mm edge and used all my gyms weights to 12kg and 10kg of water so 22 in total. This particular work was presented at the III International Rock Congress set up by the IRCRA that took May 23, 2024 · A few different hangboard workouts are: Max Hangs: These will help you hang on to smaller edges longer. Sep 12, 2023 · As the demand for more force production is needed more fatigable Larger powerful fibers are recruited. Whilst it is a simple sessi If sets on any schema (be it max hang or repeaters) is too hard. It's a max weight hang protocol, so bear that in mind. 15 likes, 0 comments - rockfitbkb on December 29, 2022: "Max Hang Protocol: 10-15s Hang + 2-3 minutes rest x 5-6 Rounds +5 minutes rest The objective is to be near your maximal exertion, but the load shouldn't be such that you start sliding off the edge before 10s. 1. 1에서 얻은 최대 무게의 85%, 90%, 95%로 10초 동안 6회 반복하는 데드 행으로 구성되었습니다 반복 사이의 휴식시간은 2분입니다 2. For someone who has never hangboarded before I still recommend the max hang routine I started with: once per week, 10 second hang in 4 finger drag (open hand) with 3-5 minutes rest, repeat 5-8 times. Aim for three times a week. To quote his article on trainingbeta: -By creating denser connective tissue, we create a more robust system Feb 15, 2019 · Anybody have an educated idea of the effects of taking a much longer rest than is instructed in the various max hang or minimum edge protocols? Due to the long rests between hangs it is hard for me to set aside enough time to get this workout in on a regular basis. 12 An example of this relationship can be seen in two of the most popular training protocols, Eva Lopez’s max hang protocol and the Anderson brother’s repeater protocol. I'm mainly doing 2 edges at 20mm and 10mm to get my fingers strong again after 2020- early 2021 COVID year off. Mar 3, 2025 · I’m going to record the results in my grip strength monitoring spreadsheet but you can get a copy of your own here (save to your drive for edit access) Day One Max hang: 7. See full list on climbing. What do you guys think about the 7/53 protocol. Rest for 3 minutes. hang times / number of sets / load) I like max hang protocols because they fit my goals (bouldering only) and are done Dec 11, 2024 · 2024. I was wondering if anyone has tried and had luck with these. com Mar 8, 2023 · The MaxHangs MAW_MED training spreadsheet features a complete 8-week training plan that consists of 4 weeks of MaxHangs MAW and 4 weeks of MaxHangs MED. Indeed, you could generally modify both of these protocols to where you could have more rest between sets with longer hold times and potentially generate sufficient volume to force strength and hypertrophy adaptation. Apr 24, 2020 · In total I did around 80 max hang hangboarding sessions over 7 months. e. Nov 7, 2018 · A 10 second hang, where you fail at around the 10 second point. May 23, 2018 · The first number (2) indicates the number of sets; after the “x” we write the name of the method or protocol and exercise (MED = minimum edge depth; Hangs = dead hangs); what follows is the duration of each dead hang in seconds and the effort level (EL) or margin in parentheses; last is the rest interval length indicated by the colon. 1. Aug 12, 2020 · If you are newer to hangboarding, start with the minimal edge protocol and work your way up to the max hang protocol. Out of curiosity, what grip position (s) are you max hanging with and what max hang protocol are you using? Please analyze my max hang gains I'm a new climber to hang board (also a beginner climber in general and I know I shouldn't be hang boarding just yet but I haven't been able to climb for a whole year so that's my only option) and I just finished my first 4 week cycle of the crimpd max-hang protocol. 8 / 33. Steve floated an interesting idea about frequent plateauing w/ the Eva Lopez max hang protocol. I'd probably aim at working my way to getting strong enough to finish a Crimpd Max Hang protocol at BW on that 20mm edge. The beauty of a Max Hang workout is that it can be done quickly. Then slightly different protocol for '90% Max Hangs' 6 sets of 10 second hangs, 2 min rest, at 90% of overall load determined in the max hang test (i. The previous max hovered between 140-145lbs on the 20mm edge and a bodyweight repeater max of ~30s (7s on 3s rest) per set on the 20mm edge. I use the Crimpd Max Hangs protocol: 10s hang at 90% max effort (tested, or progressed from a known starting point), 2 min rest, repeat for a total of 6 hangs. Approximately 3-4 sessions per week. Note: this was discussed before on the sub, but it's been 3 years since than. Now it‘s time for me to ask a question: Would you consider it sufficient to do varied grips instead of max hangs? I. Nelson developed a number of effective finger strength training protocols based on solid scientific evidence. Episode was a discussion with Steve Maisch about different hangboard protocols. Reading through Beastmaking I noticed that Ned makes a distinction between max hangs and long max hangs. Also IMO, max hangs work best with 10 second hangs and 3-4 minutes resting between, but I guess the time of the hang doesn't matter as much as long as it's consistent. Feb 28, 2022 · Dr. Hanging for between 10 - 30s each minute for 10 mins would be my best guess for a starting point. His routines are safe and easy to implement, as he prefers to use autoregulatory protocols rather than hanging off your fingertips with dozens of kilograms attached to the harness. I'll probably revisit the program once I'm quite a bit stronger and can hang smaller edges with one hand. If you want to train certain energy systems effectively you should be more specific. Dec 13, 2023 · Max Hang Training Methodology: Optimizing Strength Overview of the Protocol: For significant gains, implement a 10-second maximum hang protocol. You hang for 3 seconds with your max weight, rest for 2 minutes. I've been doing them on the 33mm holds on the beastmaker 2000. you would approach a set of five like a reg park Nov 11, 2021 · For the 'max hang test' protocol its 8 sets of 7 second hangs, 2 min rest, slowly building weight until you get failure around set 6-8. Jan 11, 2024 · Your max strength score is determined by the highest weight you can successfully perform the full seven-second hang with good technique. Perform 3 reps. Also, maybe retest your max and work at 90% of it for work as per the lattice max hang protocol. Nov 9, 2022 · Your max hang score is the maximal weight you successfully held for your selected hang time. I started training in Nov 2020 again, my max was 54lbs+bw (134%). Lattice 20mm edge in half-crimp position. Max Hang sessions are great for improving finger strength allowing you to hang onto smaller holds and hang onto holds for longer. it could also be energy system. For context I weigh 160-170 and can hang and extra 80-120lbs on the 20mm depending on a good day, but some days especially after a rest day or 2 I can barely hang the 20mm body weight if I’m not doing a protocol like this. Dec 23, 2024 · I created this 28-day calisthenics challenge: to help you not only improve your max hang time but also build the grip strength and endurance essential for mastering advanced skills. Mar 16, 2019 · Cycling between these three protocols (e. Maxi-Hang Exercise Routine: Developing Maximum Power I stuck to the protocol pretty well. May 15, 2023 · I believe it’s possible the fingerboard protocol had some positive effects, though I think its significance has been over-hyped in the climbing community. 2019 The test: 10 second max hang on 18-20mm edge half crimp. Execute this program twice per week, and you will elevate your finger strength in a few short weeks! Feb 9, 2022 · Kris Hampton 21:59 Yeah, another thing I thought about is, you know, the max to intermittent hang, the failure of that protocol to produce something in this paper, or something significant, could have been from some sort of fatigue that, you know, built up by adding those two back to back. instead of adding weight to myself? Back story: I‘m currently travelling with only a mobile hangboard. Eva Lopez’s max hang protocol calls for five hangs per session. If you are trying to hangboard all year long then hangboard frequently and at a lower volume. 5 year project and came really close to I'm a fan of Steve Bechtel's 3/6/9 protocol as a bare minimum. g. The other 20 days I did the protocol twice a day, 6. They do not alter, replace, eliminate, or dilute any of the existing federal procedures, guidelines, or regulations applicable to this topic or your facility’s protocol. Personally I love Max weight hangboarding and if you do it consistently without cutting out a large chunk of climbing you'll certainly notice a good improvement. Started climbing Feb. 4 Lately I have been considering switching my hangboard protocol (I've been on a repeater protocol pretty much every training season for many years now) to max hangs. The most important thing with fingers, they need time to recover and they need to be stimulated consistently without overdoing it. The best way to train for strength is to isolate each movement, try hard on each set, and rest completely between. There I explained why I chose that name over Repeaters and presented the INTRODUCTION to the first of my studies that compared this method to others, focusing on their effect on finger strength and endurance. The trick to using it tho is to keep the intensity at around 40% of your max hangs. 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