What size sling for top rope anchor reddit. 6mm appears to be rated around 6-7.

What size sling for top rope anchor reddit. Aaaand go enroll in a top rope anchor course. The chain is attached by two bolts/anchor points in the rock at both ends of it. The way he clips the top rope into the two draws isn't exactly correct. The quad will self-equalize for both of them without needing any adjustment. webbing is not the best for a TR anchor because the water knot that you use to bind them together will loosen up under repeated loading and unloading which is typical for a toprope anchor. Then hook the 2 eyes with the carabiner. For the areas where a tree is close, I’m going to keep it simple and use girth hitched slings around the trees, then two locking carabiners, and run the rope through there. I can't think of any normal situation in The stance was awkward and I had limited gear (I had been using the slings to tie quads earlier). If you're only ever going to be top-roping off bolts, you could keep a dedicated quad anchor, which is like a super strong/redundant sliding-X, or you could just use a non-equalising cordelette, which I'd probably favour because it's easier to adjust the position of the top-rope carabiners to get them just over an edge, etc. If you want a bomber top rope anchor, look up the "quad". Dec 7, 2022 · To keep it simple, below are the instructions to build an anchor on two bolts using a long sling and two lockers after you’ve reached the top of the climb and have secured yourself with a tether to the anchor hardware. I've done this with the ball on my truck. If the slings are going to be loaded over an edge, maybe use thicker nylon slings and double up. Here's what I'd recommend: 30m static rope (9-11 mm) 1 or 2 25ft cordolettes 2 double-length nylon slings 4 single-length nylon slings several non lockers 6 lockers a rope! Climbing Anchors by John Long, or any other anchor-building book This gear will allow you to utilize natural features to build top-rope anchors. Rather than using one sling, is it still safe to use two like this? If there's any doubt, I'll just extend the master point with slings. Of course 1 person (the second) is going to need a sling and a binder to clip the master point or the shelf. If the anchor is out of reach I'll clip the rope and clove hitch to a biner on the rope loop so I can adjust it easily. Size, storage or organization, how well the bag sits, material choices, and design. Green sling is doubled over and knotted. For an anchor, all I have is my trusty double-length sling. Say I've arrived at a two-bolt anchor, but I'm not 100% sure the bolts are bomber. This anchor is fine. com Aug 4, 2018 · I’d recommend two 120 cm nylon slings and one 60 cm sling. Every anchor you could ever need to build (off fixed points) can be done in 5 minutes (more like 2mins) if you take your time. Put an arm through each loop, sort of like putting on a jacket, with the knot between your shoulder blades. ). Put sling through anchor and around center of rope. Where I climb you need zero slings as there are chains / frequently replaced biners. 5mm. You might get an extra single runner to hang all your gear on, which you can then sling over your shoulder for easy carrying around the clifftops. Don't top rope directly through the bolt (which accelerates wear and cuts a groove as shown in the photo) and do extend the anchor downwards using your own sling and screw gate so that the rope runs through and wears your own crab. At only $18 a pop they won't break the bank and will give you a good size range to complement a standard set of nuts. You take a shortish sling, exact size may be trial and error, and tie an overhand knot in the middle so you now have two equal size loops. There’s a massive angle on the white sling. See full list on climbtallpeaks. Rope will obviously go through the quick draws at the bottom. Most outdoor shops and websites sell webbing by the foot, but unfortunately they don’t sell static rope this way. Girth hitched sling or PAS through harness, locker to bolt/chain/rats nest, pull rope from above, set rap, release anchor and go. Most other places seem to plonk some bits in and make some effort to equalise them all on a single giant sling. When properly built, the anchor is strong enough to support a falling climber’s weight. This is useful if you want to top rope two different routes which are immediately next to each other, but share the same anchor. I recently started climbing outdoors. That's a problem. I've been reading about climbing anchors, and a recurring theme is to build a top-rope anchor on bolts using 4 carabiners and a 120cm sewn runner with an overhand (or figure 8) knot. For situations that will put a lot of abuse on gear, like top rope anchors or multi-pitch anchors, I like cordelette or tied nylon runners. : r/climbing r/climbing • by Griff_Hamsley View community ranking Its a rap ring on a two point anchor. The uses of this would depend on the size. If rope has chance of abrading over edges you can setup intermediate anchor below that feature using a clove hitch to a draw before that feature with rope above loose/will be unweighed untill unclipping the clove. Get a carabiner that's rated for a 1/2 ton (or more). I often carry a 240cm sling just in case I don't have enough rope or I'm leading the next pitch, but I rarely use it. --Anchor:: If the route has 2 anchor bolts at the top, use two quick draws and sling the rope through make sure the biner gates are opposite and opposing If you don't want any wear on your draws, make quick draws using slings and locking biners, although just using quick draws is safe and effective. Or approaching the edge from above and doing a V thread close to the edge but on the horizontal parts of the ice. There are a lot of different ways to set up top rope anchors. You're good. 60m rope to give you flexibility, 8 draws to have an extra, grigri on a belay hms, one locking HMS to throw in on the top, petzl adjust to faf around an anchor and a helmet… it depends how are the anchors done in your area. What size slings and how many each do you like having set aside for trad anchors? Or do you prefer cordelette? And why. Jun 7, 2024 · The quad anchor rig offers fast set up, great strength, good load distribution and complete redundancy, all in a light, compact package. Been using it for a year and prefer the static rope over slings. I’m going to hazard a guess and say it’s only rated for a single person to weight the sling. Really depends on the scenario. A general advice is to invest in a few locking carabiners and a 60 cm sling at first. As for geartop roping is pretty easy to get into, the rope is the expensive part. A couple small lockers for the bolts and a big locker and matching oval non locker for master point is what I use if I want a super bomber top rope with said tied off sling. This is the least of their problems, because forces I would put both shackles thru both slings, invert one of the shackles, add rope pro where the rope touches shackles, switch to figure 9’s and make the loop between the knots longer. For example, with 2 slings instead of 1, with a cordette in a quad instead of a sling, or just 2 quickdraws (is the lase one somehow unsafe?) I'm curious about General Comment: Aside from the general unsafety due to bad knots and poor redundancy of some of these, really long slings/static rope off into the trees is fairly standard for east coast top roping. Wrap the strap around the rope and extra time or two if you're worried about rope sliding. Gates should be away from the rock and screwgates should tighten with gravity if they’re vertical. I don't know if it matters in this situation, top rope doesn't exactly generate high forces. It will take no time to thread two rap rings onto a sling. I am in the process of renewing pretty much all nylon, webbing and sling from my rack. If the direction of force changes, your anchor is not ideal. Of course the same principles apply Beware the triangle of death, etc. Here's what I mean. To avoid damage, especially to an extended anchor, the materials should be as static as possible. You'll need to do some research about what rope to get though, there is a lot of varietydiameter, treatments, dynamic/static, length, etc. In a top-roping situation, your anchor slings are fine: they are 1) likely under constant load (i. 100ft/30m will cover most/almost all situations. The sling was knotted at both ends so it became 2 independent strands effectively, providing good redundancy. To clean a route completely (retrieving your top carabiners), you'll have to rappel down (fine to do directly in the anchor) which may require additional gear too. One carabiner and sling on each anchor is okay, as the anchors are so close together that if one fails the swing/movement would be minimal. It requires more rope than a girth hitch, but can be done with a climbing rope which is a monolithic anchor (i. Jun 5, 2019 · Static rope is more difficult to find/buy than tubular webbing, at least in the lengths useful for top rope anchors at Devils Lake (30-60 feet). My climbing friends have been telling me it's bad practice to get into setting up top rope anchors using slings. You’ll need: Two nylon or Dyneema slings of equal length Four locking carabiners The setup: Clip locking carabiners to each anchor point. A pretty cool step-by-step explanation of anchor building for top-rope set ups. Make sure all knots in the webbing are properly dressed and long tails. Yours works just fine though and may well be more efficient if you can get the lenghts right. How long should the cordelette be, and is there a "best" diameter? I have seen anywhere from 14ft to 30ft for length and that a minimum diameter is around 5. Building a trad anchor for top rope is the same as building a trad anchor for any other purpose, so what size cams you'll need will be based off of the width of the crack. I spend some time considering 6mm or 7mm for anchor cordelette (I selected the ticker). You can use a quick draw attached to your personal anchor to do this. I clove hitch the rope into 2 5/5 pieces or 3 4/5 pieces, a 3/5 piece doesn't belong on an anchor. In the other hand, a failing top rope anchor on a 25 meters wall means death, so you cannot really bet on a small probability of issue, except if you prove that this proba is less important than "the air suddenly becomes toxic and eat your rope". This is 100% a MYTH. Learn what top rope climbing is and how to set up and clean a versatile top-rope anchor: the quad. I personally use nylon webbing for my personal anchor. You also don't have your carabiners travelling over the fisherman if the person on top rope wonders off route. A truly dynamic anchor will bounce up and down, which could lead to abrasion against a sharp edge. This is not good. This might be overkill for what your doing and not exactly related but in the interest of getting the most for what your paying for, consider a steely on the rope end of a quickdraw and designate it for the first bolt. Reply reply More repliesMore replies Dec 7, 2022 · A top rope anchor is an anchor system positioned at the top of a rock climb that holds the climbing rope. I have been using the "sliding X" and "equalette" anchor systems but am looking to invest in a cordelette to build a quad anchor with for extended periods of top roping. Two Bolts One Sling I’m looking to set up a top rope anchor off of two bolts with a 10mm double-length sling. As always, make sure your anchor meets the requirements of the six point rule before you set up a top rope. Lots of top access waterfall ice in Southern Ontario. The sling is a mammut magic sling 120cm (dyneema centre with abrasion resistant nylon sheath). What's the best way to extend a bolted anchor past a ledge? Hi guys, I've been doing my own top rope anchors this summer and unfortunately my brand new (first) rope is taking a pretty big beating from some ledgey routes. I'd try a short 1 or 2 foot lifting sling/strap. Other than that, some tubular webbing to make anchors, maybe some cordlette/slings, locking biners, and a belay device. Yeah, I'd much rather build an anchor with a rope than have to carry enough long slings to be able to equalise a 3 or 4 point Trad anchor in most places. ) nylon sling will last much longer and hold up to more wear and tear so would be a good option for your first sling. Blue sling runs from upper bolt to lower and back up, tied off with a clove to limit extension, and I clipped the tail to the lower just to back up the clove. Definitely not gunna buy a drill to set up bolts and stuff so I’m planning to top rope using rocks/trees. Instead of doing two overhand knots on the legs and a sliding x, are there any advantages/disadvantages to doing two figure eights instead? Also, is this method redundant enough while using one 10mm sling? What length and thickness of static rope is a good starting point to build an anchor? I was thinking maybe 10m (33ft) and 11mm as it it might be rubbing up against things. What am I missing? Girth hitches reduce the strength of the sling while they are tied, just like all knots. 1 is ok, 2 is super good, 3 is allso super good. Doing more outdoor climbing and i just want to be as safe as possible and extend rope life. It's my understanding that putting a knot in a sling can reduce its strength up to 60%, and though I understand that top-roping is Tie off one tree, set your masterpoint (hanging the climbing rope from the masterpoint for weight helps), adjust the static rope leg to the second tree using a tensionless anchor or a sling around the tree and a clove hitch on a locking carabiner. Clip one sling to each hanging carabiner. For smaller slings you have the Aer city sling 2 and the Aer Day Sling 3, both fantastic choices. You can absolutely do all of that with a couple of long slings, but I like the easy length adjustability. Am I doing it right? Should I use rope instead of slings? Would it be okay with just one sling after two carabiners? How would you built it in this scenario? Sorry for not having better pics of placements. I'd reserve the cord for cordolettes (although I usually use 7mm). Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. If you're on a budget I would buy a set of DMM hexes. 5 to 18kn (although I believe 18 to be a type for 8mm). Just curious. A smaller length sling would be alright for a personal anchor, but you would likely have difficulty equalizing for a top rope anchor or for bringing your partner up in a multi pitch. Usually those are reserved for a DIY sling for trad. They instead recommend using a 20' length of cordelete. Will be anchoring off of trees and large boulders often. no need for a purcell or PAS just girth hitch a sling from your tie in point and clip into the anchor, keep the sling weighted so you can't fall on it. Lock the gates Nov 24, 2020 · The quick draw anchor is the least secure of all the anchors. Learn how to choose the type you need. If your older friend seems to know what he's doing it would probably be best if you had him give you a small class, or go with you to the site and help you out. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Top New Controversial Old Q&A HunchoBandoOG • My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. I prefer using the static line over webbing personally, as it's easier to work with and more versatile. 5kn 7mm is between 13. Yeah, if there is a train waiting at the station for the climb, it might behoove you to set up the anchor with steelies rather than wear out your aluminum. You do want a minimum of 3 pieces, in 2 different crack systems, ideally, which is great, but try to use pieces with a greater variation in size, like 1 small and 1 big, because you don't know what the next pitch is going to need, and greater size variation available is almost always better. The gates on the three carabiners I can see are facing the rock. I was just wondering what are some common or overlooked mistakes people make when setting up top rope anchors? Like dropping a rope off and edge at 90° and etc. e. This is because the The two carabiners at the top will be locked to a thick steel chain. You can build an anchor just about anywhere at the lake with a set of hexes and a 25-50 foot piece of static rope. Actually, there's two slings, so it is redundant, but you're correct in that it's a bad choice for a top rope anchor if the bolts aren't exactly where you want the top rope redirect to be. Use this for gear anchors, tree anchors and so forth Also get a couple double length slings for tied off anchors. The reason for putting the double fisherman's in the looped section is if it blows you still have another strand holding it to the anchor bolt. Of course these aren’t the only options or set-ups but rather just a couple to give you an idea of the gear involved. All the rigging and knots are fine. It just takes about 20 ft of 7mm cord. All the info has already been posted, but I use 8mm static rope. You can use the quad anchor to set up a top rope. I'm looking to start practicing and building top rope anchors and was wondering what lengths of webbing would be handy to have to cover most applications. However I've seen people make their anchor many other different ways. It might make more sense in the long run, and $ wise, to use one single length of static rope to tie all the trees into a master point. internally redundant) Connecticut Tennessee hitch is an interesting mix of the two that is nice for multipitch anchors. (But also more rope = more stuff to carry/haul around, no point in getting 100ft if a single 240cm sling will do. What else should I Don't top rope around the tree itself (which is likely to damage the tree) and 2. If I intend on using a nylon sling as a PAS for simple anchor work at single pitch TR routes, do I girth hitch it to the belay loop or the tie in points? My gut says tie in points. If it takes any longer its because you don't know what you are doing and you probably tangled something. no risk of a static material taking a dynamic load) and B) the rope absorbs a lot of the dynamic force of falling. slings are much more resistant to abrasion and cutting. Although I've practiced a few times, I've never had to do it in anger. What type of climbing will you be doing? For me, I go with a pre-built 120cm sling quad anchor for anything bolted, 120cm sling for building trad anchors, and a 20’ cordalette for anywhere I need to extend an anchor. 6mm appears to be rated around 6-7. I wouldn't use that set up these days though, as unless you know exactly how the handrail is fixed to the roof you don't know what Yes, two seperate slings is a far stronger system, but requires both anchor bolts to be at the same height to properly distribute the load on two equal length slings, which is not always the case. What's my best best for an anchor? A sliding-X would make the anchor perfectly equalized, but extensible. Oct 29, 2023 · If I’m setting up a top rope for the fam/buds to harass the rock for 3 hours, I might think about using a quad or 2 lockers, but then I go with the simple anchor and use my typical setup of 1locker and 1 regular draw anyway. Personally I would put the main beams up, and use slings on branches then just sling, or even bolt the beam, not the tree, ideally you want a releasable system on a ground anchor with A tied off Munter hitch for a releasable srt system, but I would say someone you know will know someone who knows how to set up rigging. I'd also have the best angle possible between the two legs, minimizing the forces on each bolt. But you can't always trust a bolt, so clip two if you can when going in direct. Bad things (can) happen. The bottom line is that these videos are talking about what happens when static material is dynamically loaded. Dec 19, 2012 · I recommend starting off with four slings, two single (24") runners and two double (48") runners, to help with your top rope anchor building. The Double Sling You can also set up a top rope anchor with two slings, which can be faster and easier than using a cordelette, though it’s a little harder to equalize if the bolts are staggered. It's hard to explain without demonstrating, but you want the draws to be flat (parallel with the wall) and opposed (gates facing opposite directions). My personal preference would be to sling shorter slings around your pieces, clip a carabiner and then do a more conventional fixed point or sliding x anchor. It's fine as a top rope anchor if the direction of force is down towards the yellow locking carabiner. Or use the rope for the anchor via cloveing all the pieces. In my mind such a small fall could easily be produced by a small fuck up at the anchor while clipped in with a sling to belay, yank on a stuck rap rope or haul a bag etc yes you can tie in to the anchor with the rope but often at semi hanging belays I also use a sling to keep rigging simple and allow for easy adjustability etc. I like it for cleaning a sport route, setting up a top rope anchor, and starting a rappel. Reply reply Slings would be nice for a bomber tree, bolt anchors, or other close together set ups and you will undoubtedly have them already The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. Remember: solid, redundant, equalized, no extension. I build an anchor - my typical setup is to sling 2-3 anchors, then connect them with either a cordlette or a length of static Sometimes I'll add an instructor anchor rope (if I have excess in the system) Get onto rappel My anchors are always extended over the edge, so the transition to rappel always seems goofy and not very I've watched a lot of videos now on building a belay anchor for multi-pitches, videos on how to build top rope anchors with two feet firmly planted on the ground, but all of the videos on how to set up a rap off the anchors to clean a lead/sport route they always pull out some cordage or a PAS at some point. I was shown to make a self-equalizing anchor (with the x) using a sling and 4 locking carabiners, and have done that since. Learn how to set pro and use appropriate natural protection. In general, a static cord is preferred for a top rope anchor. Wanted redundancy, limited extension, and the master point below the ledge. I (and my partners) know how to switch over from a climbing rope anchor to a cord/sling anchor. Tl;dr the anchor was extended over an edge with a nylon sling. While it is the least secure, it likely won’t allow the rope to come out especially if you do not climb above the anchor when cleaning but still does not have the added security of all the other methods. What do you usually use for a top rope sport anchor and why? I've been with various groups that have used quickdraws with locking biners, sliding x with limiter knots, and simple overhand/figure 8 knot on a bight, and I'm curious what climbit's preference is. A top rope scenario likely wouldn't put enough force on the system to matter but it's not a good habit to get into, especially when there are easy ways around it. I'm trying to extend my top rope anchor a few feet. Gear Your personal sling/anchor should be solid if you know how old it is etcetera. Although I am curious about what around here thinks. Generally you never need a 240 sling if you're able to be creative with anchor building, but a lot of people like them because it can help simplify things. A lot of times you are extending to protect the rope from a sharp edge, so you wouldn't want to use cord in that case. Just wanted to see if slinging a tree is a viable method to build a top rope anchor, or too much rope stretch with added distance from tree to the waterfall edge. The locking draw The slings are redundant by virtue of their being two of them attached to different anchor points. The master point is not over the lip, so they’ll have bad rope drag and it’ll wear their rope prematurely. Learn all about it here. It provides easy clipping at the top and I usually choose this for when all climbers will be leading the climb. Establishing top rope anchor using two quickdraws - acceptable? Hey, I'm dabbling into the basics of climbing, and am wondering if it is (and why not) acceptable to establish a top rope anchor by attaching two quickdraws to the two top bolts? Hey guys. I always clove in with the rope while climbing, but I’ll use a sling or a PAS as a personal anchor while rappelling. A more bomber TR anchor. And I second the advice to get a 120cm sling for general purpose (anchor building, alpine draw, etc. An equalette or cordelette (cordalette?) would have Slings, runners, cord, cordelettes and webbing are all climbing essentials. Seems very focused on 'American' anchors. However, learning how to place traditional gear will give you a lot more I currently do loads of gym climbing, but want to do more climbing outdoors. I think Irata say you have to double things up once the anchors are more than 2m apart. Bomber Top-Rope Anchor Kit: 120cm or 180cm sling of either Dyneema or Nylon 2 Screwgate or Triple Action HMS Carabiners 2 Locking D Carabiners A basic TR anchor. The longer slings are most often deployed around medium size tree anchors, used in a pre-equalized fashion on two bolts, or as part of a larger more complex gear anchor, and will have two dedicated carabiners (see section below). If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. The two knots are just simple over hands. Falls closer to anchor with any slack in the system will be more jarring etc than any top rope or lead fall. However, I found something I would do differently- curious as to whether anyone picks out the same thing. Redundancy and load distribution are key! Reply reply More replies GlassBraid • So if you're talking about something like a top rope anchor, which might be loaded and The longer the static rope, the more options youll have to anchor stuff because more stuff will be in the reach of the rope. There are always exceptions though so if you are climbing in a new area you should probably know the basics of building an anchor and carry a sling etc if you don't know what the anchor is going to be. Reply Needmoretacos • Would this be considered a good Personal Anchor System? (18mm Nylon runner 240cm, braided to shorten) May 3, 2018 · 2 Non-Locking D Carabiners 2. Question on webbing length for top rope anchors. If one somehow blows a piece in their top rope anchor (again, set good pieces and this should never happen), the extension in the anchor is equivalent to the climber falling the same distance onto the rope. EXAMPLE: You set a sliding -X on a two bolt anchor and one of the bolts is rusty and blows out. Now you’re completely on top of each other. They tend to be more versatile and durable than dyneema slings, and they are cheap enough to cut up or leave behind. sugq vgnepk bnu esragkt wmfbgq egcpuc niiunw zyjm wjnljk zcs